Friday, July 24, 2020

Great Bardfield, Essex


The tailor...and the tailoress

We have a shelf of King Penguin books – small, hardback volumes published by Penguin in the 1940s and 1950s, on a range of subjects. The books’ approach combines a text essay with a collection of pictures and the range is wide – there are a lot of natural history books, a few on places (Romney Marsh with illustrations by John Piper, The Isle of Wight illustrated by Barbara Jones), a few on subjects relating to historic buildings (The Leaves of Southwell by Nikolaus Pevsner, for example). These are all favourites of mine, but the one I like best of all is Life in an English Country Village, illustrated with a series of lithographs by Edward Bawden.

I am a great admirer of Bawden and I’m pleased that by owning this little book I have have a few of his works in a form that wasn’t ruinously expensive. I also like it that Bawden based his illustrations on people and buildings in Great Bardfield, the village where he and a number of other artists lived, making the place a hub of creative activity like few others – the local characters, and Bawden’s keen observation, shine through. If the palette is quite limited, the line is always clear and telling. And there’s a more personal reason I like this book. It reminds me of my mother and father.

My parents weren’t artists and didn’t live in Great Bardfield. But two illustration in particular remind me of stories they told me when I was growing up in the 1960s about what things were like when they were growing up in the 1930s. When she was small, my mother and her parents lived with her maternal grandparents in a large northern city. My great-grandfather was a tailor who worked from home. He had met my great-grandmother through her work, because she had the same trade as he did – she was always referred to as a tailoress, a term I’d not herd before and which seemed to suggest something a bit better than a seamstress. She could cut a gentleman’s suit, and do a good job too, although the mores of the time would perhaps not have allowed her to measure her customer’s inside leg. By the time my mother had arrived on the scene, the tailoress had given up her scissors and work table for domestic life (although she always made my mother beautiful clothes). My great grandfather continued in his work, however, and my mother told me how, as a very small girl, she would creep under his table while he sat on top, sewing away, just like Bawden’s tailor in the illustration. My grandmother, a rather strict woman, did not officially permit her daughter to go into the workroom – she’d distract the man at his important tasks – but the tailor was of course only too glad to have his only grandchild’s company as he snipped and stitched away.

All this passes through my mind as I look at Bawden’s illustration. The room the tailor works in looks as if it may be some outhouse or shed – I’m thinking of the ceiling, which looks like a pitched roof clad inside with tongue and groove boards. But I may be wrong: it could just as well be an opportunistic house extension. It certainly doesn’t look like the spacious front room of a Victorian house, the setting of my great grandfather’s tailoring. But both rooms are light, and both no doubt equipped with what it took for a man to do his job, a job which needed sharp vision, concentration, and excellent coordination of hand and eye – qualities needed by an artist like Bawden too.


5 comments:

Neil said...

Lovely memories. Have I ever shown you the proofs I have of Life in an English Village? If not, next time.

Ann W said...

My great uncle was a tailor and described sitting in that manner to work when I visited him as a child when he was in his seventies. He sat in the window seat of the living room window. Despite having retired his equipment was still laid out. There was a flat iron, huge cutting shears and a large pincushion full of threaded needles. Apparently, needles were always threaded and ready in this way before sewing started. He had carried on the skills of his father and grandfather and possibly further back still although records on that score are a little hazy. Although it was easy to visualise what he meant I had never seen a picture of a tailor at work in this way before. I must seek out a copy of the book.
Ann

Ann W said...

My great uncle was a tailor and described sitting in that manner to work when I visited him as a child when he was in his seventies. He sat in the window seat of the living room window. Despite having retired his equipment was still laid out. There was a flat iron, huge cutting shears and a large pincushion full of threaded needles. Apparently, needles were always threaded and ready in this way before sewing started. He had carried on the skills of his father and grandfather and possibly further back still although records on that score are a little hazy. Although it was easy to visualise what he meant I had never seen a picture of a tailor at work in this way before. I must seek out a copy of the book.

Philip Wilkinson said...

Neil: I've not seen those proofs, and would love to!

Philip Wilkinson said...

Ann: Lovely to read your memories. The book is quite scarce now, but it's worth getting if you can find an affordable copy.